Moroccan cuisine is one of the world's great food cultures, and on the Essaouira coast it turns to the sea: just-landed sardines and sea bass grilled on the harbour, fish tagines bright with chermoula, the local argan oil and amlou, and the endless ritual of sweet mint tea.
Dishes to seek out
Beyond the famous tagine and couscous, the Atlantic port adds its own specialities for the curious eater.
- Fish tagine — Essaouira's signature: white fish or sardines layered with chermoula, tomato, preserved lemon and potato.
- Grilled harbour fish — sardines, sea bream and sole picked from the ice and cooked on the spot at the port stalls.
- Tagine — slow-cooked stews (lamb with prunes, chicken with preserved lemon and olives, kefta with egg).
- Couscous — traditionally the Friday family meal, steamed with seven vegetables.
- Argan and amlou — the local cold-pressed argan oil, and amlou, the rich almond-argan-honey spread eaten with bread.
- Pastilla, harira and msemen — the sweet-savoury pie, the lentil soup and the layered pancakes found across Morocco.
The tea ritual
Mint tea — green tea, fresh mint and plenty of sugar, poured from height — is the thread running through Moroccan hospitality. It's offered everywhere, from souk stalls to Berber homes, and accepting it graciously is part of the experience.
Eating well and safely
Morocco is largely Muslim, so pork is rare and alcohol is served mainly in hotels, licensed restaurants and tourist riads rather than everywhere — though Essaouira's harbour seafood restaurants and a number of medina spots are licensed. Tap water is best avoided for drinking — choose bottled. At the Essaouira port grills, the busiest stalls with the fastest turnover are the freshest; agree the per-kilo price before you order. Vegetarians do well: salads, vegetable tagines and couscous are everywhere.
Frequently asked
What is the national dish of Morocco?
Couscous and tagine are the two contenders. Couscous is the traditional Friday family meal; tagine — the slow-cooked stew named after its conical earthenware pot — is eaten across the country in countless variations.
Can you drink alcohol in Morocco?
Yes, but discreetly. Alcohol is served in hotels, licensed restaurants, tourist riads and some bars rather than universally. Outside these, especially in conservative areas and during Ramadan, it's not the norm.
Is Moroccan food good for vegetarians?
Very. Vegetable tagines, couscous, lentil soups, salads, bread and an abundance of fruit make Morocco one of the easier countries to travel as a vegetarian.
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Culture
Morocco Etiquette & Customs
A little cultural awareness goes a long way in Morocco. Dress modestly in town, greet warmly, ask before photographing people, use your right hand, and embrace the unhurried pace — something Essaouira, with its café terraces and Gnaoua rhythm, does better than almost anywhere.
Practical
What to Pack for Morocco
Pack light, modest and layered — and, for the Essaouira coast, pack for wind. Morocco swings from a breezy Atlantic port to hot interior medinas and cold desert nights in a single trip, so breathable layers, a windproof shell, comfortable walking shoes and a warm top cover almost everything.
Planning
The Best Time to Visit Morocco
Spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November) are the best all-round times to visit Morocco — and if you base yourself on the Atlantic in Essaouira, the breezy coast stays comfortable even when the interior bakes. Here is how the seasons play out across the windswept port, the medinas, the High Atlas and the Sahara.