South of Essaouira's walls the coast turns wild. Across the river lies Diabat, the village wrapped in Hendrix legend, with the ruined Bordj el Berod tower half-buried in the sand; further down, the long, windswept beach of Sidi Kaouki opens out beneath the argan and the dunes. It is the counterweight to the busy medina — empty, raw and elemental. Here is what it really is, and how to decide whether to go.
What are Diabat and the Bordj, really?
A short walk south along the beach and across the Oued Ksob river brings you to Diabat, a quiet village famous for its 1960s associations — Jimi Hendrix is said to have stayed nearby, and the half-sunk Bordj el Berod tower on the sand is often (loosely) linked to the song "Castles Made of Sand". It is a created legend more than a documented one, but the ruined tower against the surf does most of the work, and the walk out from Essaouira is lovely.
How do you get there, and what does it take?
Diabat is a 20-minute walk or short taxi south of the medina; just check the river crossing, which can flood after rain. Sidi Kaouki is about 25 km and 30 minutes further down the coast road by taxi or car. The classic way to reach the Bordj and Diabat is on horseback or camel along the sand from Essaouira's main beach — a gentle, memorable half-day. Read more about getting around in our Essaouira coast guide.
The honest case for and against
In favour: Sidi Kaouki is a glorious, near-empty Atlantic beach — a long sweep of sand backed by dunes, prime for windsurf, kite and horse riding, with a handful of laid-back cafés. The walk to the Bordj el Berod through the surf is atmospheric, and the whole excursion is a fine antidote to the medina crowds.
Against: there is genuinely little to 'do' beyond the beach, the wind and a coffee. The Hendrix story is more myth than history, and the wind can be fierce. If you arrive expecting attractions, you may be underwhelmed; if you arrive expecting wild, open coast, you almost certainly won't be.
How to make the most of it
Go in the calmer morning or at golden hour, when the wind eases and the light is best on the sand. Check the tides and the river before you ride or walk far. Bring water, a windproof layer and shoes you don't mind getting sandy. At Sidi Kaouki, a long beach walk and a mint tea at a café is the whole point — slow down and let the open coast do its work. If you want to surf, build it around the wind rather than the clock.
How it fits your Essaouira plans
The classic approach is to settle into Essaouira first — the ramparts, the port, the medina — then take a half-day out to Diabat and Sidi Kaouki for the wilder coast, on horseback or by car. Don't try to cram it into a tight day-trip schedule from Marrakech; it deserves a relaxed morning. We build the timing into our Essaouira itineraries so the town and the wild coast complement rather than clash.
Frequently asked
What exactly are Diabat and Sidi Kaouki?
Diabat is a small village just south of Essaouira across the Oued Ksob river, famous as the place where Jimi Hendrix is said to have stayed in the late 1960s, with the ruined Bordj el Berod tower on the beach nearby. Sidi Kaouki is a wide, wild surf beach about 25 km further south, with a marabout shrine, a string of low-key cafés and some of the best wind on the coast.
How do you get to Diabat and Sidi Kaouki from Essaouira?
Diabat is a 20-minute walk or short taxi south along the beach and across the river (which can be impassable after rain — check first). Sidi Kaouki is about 25 km, 30 minutes by taxi or car down the coast road. Many visitors do both in one easy half-day, or ride out on horseback or camel along the sand from Essaouira.
Is the trip to Sidi Kaouki worth it?
If you want big, empty Atlantic beach and serious wind, yes. Sidi Kaouki is rawer and quieter than Essaouira — a long sweep of sand backed by dunes and argan, popular with windsurfers, kitesurfers and horse riders. There is little to 'do' beyond the beach and a few cafés, which is exactly the point. It is the place to feel the open coast.
Can you surf or ride horses at these beaches?
Yes. Sidi Kaouki and the beaches around Diabat are prime windsurf and kitesurf spots, with rental and instruction available in season. Horse and camel rides along the sand from Essaouira to the Bordj el Berod ruins and Diabat are a classic, gentle outing — operators set up near the main beach. Check the river crossing and tides before riding far.
Should you visit before or after seeing central Essaouira?
Most people settle into Essaouira first — the ramparts, the port, the medina — then take a half-day out to Diabat and Sidi Kaouki for the wilder coast. Either order works. The beaches are best in the calmer morning light or the golden hour, so plan the trip around the wind and tides rather than a fixed slot.
Include it in your journey
Diabat and Sidi Kaouki fit naturally into our Essaouira itineraries.
We handle the timing around wind and tide, pair the wild coast with a properly paced town visit, and can arrange a horse or camel ride along the sand. Tell us your dates and we'll build the rest.